For a leak where a pipe comes through a foundation wall or a sump pit, buy Quikrete Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement No. 1126 in the 10 lb pail. It reaches final set in 5 minutes or less and is listed for active leaks and for sealing around concrete pipe. Pick DRYLOK Fast Plug in the 4 lb tub if you only have one or two small holes, or if you plan to paint the wall with DRYLOK masonry waterproofer after. Both plug water coming through concrete. Neither fixes a leaking pipe.
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If the water is coming out of the pipe itself, stop here and read how to stop a leaking pipe or our epoxy putty guide. Hydraulic cement is for the concrete around the pipe.
Quikrete vs DRYLOK at a glance
| Check | Quikrete No. 1126 | DRYLOK Fast Plug |
|---|---|---|
| Choose when | Several leaks, larger voids, gaps around pipe | One or two small holes, or you will coat the wall with DRYLOK |
| Set time | Final set 5 minutes or less (ASTM C191) | 3 to 5 minutes |
| Working time | Mix only what you can place in 2 to 3 minutes | Mix only enough for 3 minutes |
| Mix | 4-1/2 parts powder to 1 part water by weight | 3 parts powder to 1 part water |
| 24-hour strength | 2,500 psi | 2,650 psi |
| Cold weather | Below 50°F, mix with warm water | Not on surfaces below 40°F; use 90°F water in cold |
| Sizes | 10, 20 and 50 lb pails | 4, 10 and 50 lb |
| Exact purchase | Check Quikrete 1126 10 lb on Amazon → | Check DRYLOK Fast Plug 4 lb on Amazon → |
Quikrete figures come from the Quikrete 1126 data sheet (quikrete.com). DRYLOK figures come from the DRYLOK Fast Plug data sheet (d2w8l4nyjr77a0.cloudfront.net) and the Fast Plug product page (drylok.com).
BEST OVERALL · FINAL SET 5 MINUTES OR LESS
Quikrete Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement No. 1126: best for pipe penetrations
Choose it when water is coming in around a pipe sleeve, a cracked sump pit wall or a tie hole in a poured foundation. Quikrete lists it for active leaks in concrete and masonry, above and below grade, and names sealing around concrete pipe, foundations and retaining walls as uses on the product page (quikrete.com). The data sheet (quikrete.com) lists 1,000 psi at 2 hours, 2,500 psi at 24 hours and 5,500 psi at 28 days. No curing compound is needed.
The 10 lb pail yields about 145 cubic inches. That is plenty for a pipe penetration or a few cracks. Quikrete says to mix small batches of 4 to 6 oz of powder at a time, about a golf ball. Big batches set in the bucket.
Skip it for resurfacing a wall or a floor. Quikrete says it is only for filling active leaks in cracks or holes, not for flat surfaces or coatings. Also keep it off bare aluminum, which the data sheet says it may degrade.
BEST SMALL BATCH · 4 LB TUB
DRYLOK Fast Plug: best for one small leak and a DRYLOK-coated wall
Choose it when you have a single pin leak or a small gap and do not want a big pail sitting around. The 4 lb size is order number 773267 (old number 00917), and the 10 lb is 830579 (old 00924), per the DRYLOK data sheet (d2w8l4nyjr77a0.cloudfront.net). DRYLOK says it stops flowing water and works above and below ground, even with active leaks. Once set, you can paint over it with DRYLOK Original, Extreme or powdered masonry waterproofer, per the product page (drylok.com).
DRYLOK’s leak method is simple. Mix 3 parts powder to 1 part water, wait until it gets warm in your glove at about 2 to 3 minutes, press it into the hole with your palm, and hold it 3 to 5 minutes. Trim and smooth at about 5 minutes. DRYLOK lists coverage at 16 cubic inches per pound.
Skip it in a cold basement below 40°F. DRYLOK says not to apply it to surfaces below that. And do not mix more than about 1 cup at a time. It cannot be reworked once it sets.
Check DRYLOK Fast Plug 4 lb on Amazon →
Need more for a long floor-wall joint? The 10 lb size is the same product. Check DRYLOK Fast Plug 10 lb on Amazon →
PREP TOOL · CARBON STEEL, 3 X 19 ROWS
Forney 70504 long-handle wire brush: clean the hole first
Choose it when the leak spot has loose paint, efflorescence, mud or old sealant on it. DRYLOK says to clean the area by wire brushing or scraping, and Quikrete says to remove loose material, dirt, algae, paint and sealant. The Forney 70504 (forneyind.com) is a carbon steel scratch brush with a long handle and 3 by 19 rows. The long handle keeps your knuckles off rough concrete while you scrub. It is a prep tool only; it does not seal anything.
Skip it if you already own a stiff wire brush. Any carbon steel brush works here. For a hole you also need a cold chisel and hammer to cut the edges square or undercut.
How to plug a leak around a pipe
These steps follow the Quikrete and DRYLOK instructions. Read your product’s label too; the two makers differ on mix and temperature.
- Find the real source. Dry the area with a towel and watch. If water runs along the outside of the pipe from above, the leak may be a fitting, not the wall. Fix that first.
- Cut the opening. Chisel the crack or the gap around the pipe wide and deep enough to pack, with square or undercut sides. Quikrete says to avoid V-shaped cuts. DRYLOK describes the same idea as an inverted V with the point at the surface, so the plug is wider at the back and locks in.
- Clean it. Wire brush and blow out dust and loose pieces. Remove paint and old sealant.
- Wet the surface. DRYLOK says to wet the area before patching. On an active leak it is already wet.
- Mix a small batch. Quikrete: 4-1/2 parts powder to 1 part water by weight, 4 to 6 oz of powder at a time. DRYLOK: 3 to 1, no more than 1 cup. Mix to a stiff putty. Quikrete warns the product can cause severe skin burns and eye damage, and DRYLOK calls for eye protection, rubber gloves and a dust mask.
- Press and hold. Work from the top of a crack down. Shape the mix into a plug, press it into the opening and hold steady pressure until it sets and the water stops. Quikrete says a second layer must go on before the first is fully set.
- Trim and leave it. Strike off the excess. No curing compound is needed for Quikrete 1126. DRYLOK can be painted once set.
Around plastic or metal pipe: the weak spot is the bond between the cement and the pipe, not the cement. Pipes move a little with temperature and when pumps start. Keep the plug packed tight and watch it after the first few pump cycles. If a sewer or water service line enters below grade and leaks keep coming back, the problem may be outside the wall. That job needs a licensed plumber or a waterproofing contractor, and work on a sewer lateral usually needs a permit.
Where hydraulic cement fails
- Wide, moving cracks. A crack that grows or a wall that bows is a structural issue. Call a structural engineer before you plug it.
- Thin skim coats. Quikrete says not to use 1126 for resurfacing or coating. It needs a cavity to lock into.
- Cold water and a cold wall. Cold slows the set. Use warm mixing water as each maker says.
- A sump pit that is the only drain. Plugging the pit wall is fine. Plugging where water is meant to reach the pit is not. Check the pump first; our sump pump guide covers sizing and replacement.
- The pipe itself leaks. Hydraulic cement will not seal a cracked or pinholed pipe. Repair the pipe.
Hydraulic cement FAQ
How long does hydraulic cement take to set?
Quikrete Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement No. 1126 reaches final set in 5 minutes or less by ASTM C191, and the product page says 3 to 5 minutes. DRYLOK Fast Plug sets in 3 to 5 minutes. Heat speeds the set and cold slows it.
Can hydraulic cement stop water that is actively leaking?
Yes. That is what it is for. Quikrete lists 1126 for active leaks, and DRYLOK says Fast Plug stops flowing water. Cut the hole square or undercut, press the plug in, and hold it until it sets.
Can you use hydraulic cement under water?
Neither maker’s page we read says it can be placed fully under water. Both list it for active leaks above and below grade. If a sump pit is flooded, pump it down and plug the leak while water is only running in.
Should I paint over hydraulic cement?
You can. DRYLOK says Fast Plug can be painted once set with DRYLOK masonry waterproofers or floor paint. Quikrete says no curing compound is needed for 1126. Test a small spot first if color matters.
Is hydraulic cement the right fix for a leak around a sewer pipe?
It can seal the gap in the wall, but it will not fix a cracked pipe or a failed seal outside. If the leak keeps coming back, or sewage is present, call a licensed plumber. Work on a sewer line usually needs a permit.
How we chose
This is a document-based comparison from a licensed plumber’s point of view. We read the Quikrete 1126 data sheet and product page, and the DRYLOK Fast Plug data sheet and product page, for the exact sizes linked here. We looked for products sold for active leaks in concrete, with published set times, mix ratios and strengths.
We left out patching mortars and resurfacers, which are not made to stop running water. Sources and linked listings were read October 14, 2026; sellers and availability change. We do not publish prices or claim hands-on testing. More about our selection method and Plumbing Picks.
Primary sources
- Quikrete Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement 1126 data sheet (PDF) (quikrete.com): set time, mix ratio, batch size, strengths, yield, prep, limitations, safety.
- Quikrete Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement product page (quikrete.com): uses, sizes, 3 to 5 minute set.
- DRYLOK Fast Plug product data sheet (PDF) (d2w8l4nyjr77a0.cloudfront.net): order numbers, sizes, strengths, 40°F minimum.
- DRYLOK Fast Plug product page (drylok.com): mix ratio, application steps, coverage, painting.
- Forney scratch brushes (forneyind.com): 70504 carbon steel long-handle brush, 3 x 19 rows.