Kitchen sink leaking underneath

Dry it, find which side it’s on, then fix that one joint.

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On this page
  1. Leak locator
  2. The kit
  3. Find it fast
  4. Drain-side leaks
  5. Basket strainer
  6. Supply-side leaks
  7. Leaks from above
  8. After the leak
  9. FAQ
  10. How I wrote it

Quick answer

Dry everything, then run water. A drip only while water drains is the drain side: a slip nut, washer or the basket strainer. A drip with the faucet off is the supply side: a stop or supply line.

Plumb Pak beveled slip joint washers, 1-1/2 inch, white
Most common fix: a new 1-1/2 in. slip joint washer$6.05 at AmazonPrice as of Oct 24, 2026, 5:30 AM EDT
Check it on Amazon

Where is your sink leaking from?

Answer two questions. The locator names the likely joint and the fix.

Likely: the basket strainer seal.

Water that appears right under the bowl only while it drains is coming past the strainer’s putty or gasket. Tighten the locknut; if it still weeps, pull it and reseal with fresh putty.

This is my order of suspects from the trade. A dry paper towel on each joint confirms it.

The question that cuts the list in half is pressure. Supply pipes are always under pressure, so they drip whether or not you use the sink. Drain pipes only carry water when the sink empties, so a drain leak stops when the sink is dry.

If the disposal itself is wet, go straight to garbage disposal leaking. If the drip is at a compression nut on a stop, compression fitting leaking under the sink has the full fix.

Washers, a drain kit, putty and an alarm

Most under-sink leaks need a few dollars of parts and your hands. I’ve used every item in this kit.

Plumb Pak beveled slip joint washers, 1-1/2 inch, white
Best for a dripping trap nut

Plumb Pak 1-1/2 in. washers

$6.05 at Amazon
Check it on Amazon
Price as of Oct 24, 2026, 5:30 AM EDT
PlumbCraft 27-piece kitchen sink drain repair kit parts
Best for a cracked trap or arm

PlumbCraft 27-piece kit

$27.86 at Amazon
Check it on Amazon
Price as of Oct 24, 2026, 5:30 AM EDT
Oatey 31177 stain-free plumber’s putty, 9 ounce tub
Best for a leaking basket strainer

Oatey 31177 putty

$4.54 at Amazon
Check it on Amazon
Price as of Oct 24, 2026, 5:30 AM EDT
Resideo RWD21 reusable water leak alarm, white
Best for catching the next leak

Resideo RWD21 alarm

$10.99 at Amazon
Check it on Amazon
Price as of Oct 24, 2026, 5:30 AM EDT
ItemKey specsPick it ifSkip it if
Plumb Pak PP25519-201-1/2 in. beveled polyethylene slip joint washers, 20-packA trap nut drips even after a snug hand-tightening.Your drain is 1-1/4 in. (common on bathroom sinks). Buy that size.
PlumbCraft 7027010N kit27 pieces for 1-1/2 in. drains, center or end outlet; thermoplastic pipe and poly washersA trap, tee or arm is cracked, or the old metal trap has corroded.Only a washer is bad. A whole kit is more than you need.
Oatey 31177 puttyNon-staining; Oatey lists granite, marble, quartz and Corian; stays flexibleThe basket strainer leaks and needs resealing.Your strainer uses a rubber gasket only; follow its instructions.
Resideo RWD21Reusable spot alarm; detects water 1/16 in. deep; audible alertYou want a warning before the cabinet floor swells.You want phone alerts. This one only sounds on site.

Check your drain size before buying washers. Kitchen sinks almost always use 1-1/2 in. tubular drains; bathroom sinks are often 1-1/4 in. Mixing sizes with a stack of reducing washers is a common cause of slow weeps. The trap size by fixture guide has the full table.

A PlumbCraft kit’s parts list, as printed by retailers for the 27-piece kitchen kit, includes a center-outlet tee, end-outlet tee, J-bends, waste arms, a wall tube, a floor tube, tailpieces and seven slip nuts and washers. Check the box against your sink before you start.

How to find the leak in five minutes

A dry cabinet and a paper towel beat guessing.

  1. 1
    Empty the cabinet

    Pull everything out and lay down a towel so new drips show.

  2. 2
    Dry every pipe

    Wipe all pipes, nuts and valves completely dry with a rag.

  3. 3
    Test the supply side first

    Leave the faucet off for 10 minutes. Wrap a dry paper towel around each stop and supply nut and look for a damp spot.

  4. 4
    Test the drain side

    Fill the sink a few inches with the stopper in, then pull it. Hold a dry towel under each joint as the water drains.

  5. 5
    Follow the first drop

    Water runs downhill along pipes. The highest wet spot is the leak; everything below is runoff.

Filling the bowl matters. A running faucet sends a trickle down the drain; a full bowl pushes real volume and pressure through every joint, the way a sink of dishwater does. If you have a double bowl, test each side separately.

Some people add a few drops of food coloring to the water. It makes a slow weep easy to see on a white paper towel.

Check the dishwasher too. Run a short cycle and watch the drain hose connection at the disposal or the sink tailpiece while it pumps out. A dishwasher pushes water through that joint under pump pressure, so it can leak during a cycle and look dry the rest of the day.

Fixing a leak on the drain side

Most under-sink leaks are here, at a joint you can fix by hand.

Leak atCauseFix
Slip nut on the trapLoose nut or a hardened, cracked or backward washerSnug by hand; replace the washer bevel-first into the joint
Trap or J-bend bodyCrack, or corrosion on a metal trapReplace the trap; swap metal for plastic
Under the bowl at the strainerDried putty or a loose locknutTighten the locknut, or reseal with putty
Tailpiece jointWasher or nut at the strainer’s tailpieceRe-seat the washer and snug the nut
Wall connectionArm too short or crooked in the wall fittingReplace the arm so it enters straight
  1. 1
    Put a bucket under the trap

    The trap holds water; it will spill when you open it.

  2. 2
    Loosen the slip nuts by hand

    Plastic nuts turn by hand. Use channel locks gently on metal ones.

  3. 3
    Check each washer

    The bevel (tapered side) faces into the joint, toward the pipe it seals onto. A flat, hard or cracked washer gets replaced.

  4. 4
    Line the pipes up

    Joints should slide together straight. Forcing a crooked joint closed is the usual cause of a repeat leak.

  5. 5
    Hand-tighten, then a quarter turn

    Snug plastic nuts by hand. Overtightening cracks them.

  6. 6
    Retest with a full bowl

    Fill, drain and check with a dry towel again.

That beveled washer is where most repeat leaks come from. Installed flat side in, it never seals; reused after years, it’s hard as plastic. A 20-pack costs little enough to replace every washer you touch.

A corroded chrome trap that leaks at the bend can’t be fixed with a washer. Replace it with a plastic trap from a repair kit, and replace any brittle metal tailpiece while you’re there.

Resealing a leaking basket strainer

If water appears right under the bowl, the strainer’s seal has failed.

  1. 1
    Disconnect below

    Loosen the tailpiece slip nut and move it aside.

  2. 2
    Remove the locknut

    Unscrew the large locknut under the sink. A strainer wrench or channel locks helps; have someone hold the strainer from above.

  3. 3
    Lift the strainer out

    Scrape all old putty off the strainer and the sink opening, then clean and dry both.

  4. 4
    Roll a rope of putty

    Press a pencil-thick rope of putty around the underside of the strainer’s rim.

  5. 5
    Set it and tighten

    Press the strainer into the opening, then from below fit the rubber gasket, fiber washer and locknut, and tighten until the putty squeezes out evenly.

  6. 6
    Wipe and reconnect

    Wipe away the squeezed-out putty, reconnect the tailpiece and test with a full bowl.

On a granite or quartz counter, regular putty can stain. Oatey sells 31177 as non-staining and lists granite, marble, quartz and Corian. Some strainers ship with a foam or rubber gasket in place of putty; follow the strainer’s own sheet if so.

If the strainer body is cracked or its threads are worn, replace the strainer. Our kitchen sink basket strainer guide compares them.

Fixing a leak on the supply side

Supply leaks run all the time, so they do the most damage. Shut the water off first.

Leak atCauseFix
Compression nut on the stopNut loose or ferrule not seatedSnug the nut; see our compression fitting guide
The stop’s handle stemWorn packingSnug the packing nut a little, or replace the stop
Supply line nutLoose nut or failed seal insideSnug as the maker says; replace the line if it still drips
Supply line bodyBulge, kink, rust on braid or crackReplace the line now
Faucet inlet aboveLoose connection at the faucetSnug the connection at the faucet’s shank or hose

For tightness, follow the connector maker. Fluidmaster’s sheet tells you to thread a metal nut onto the shutoff valve and tighten it 1/2 turn beyond hand-tight, and if a leak appears, to tighten just enough for a leak-free joint without overtightening. Cranking a compression nut can crush the ferrule and make it worse.

A braided line that’s bulging, frayed or rusty is near the end. Replace it rather than tightening. The braided faucet supply lines guide covers sizes, and how to install a faucet shows the connections.

When the water comes from above the cabinet

Wet cabinet, dry pipes? Look up.

  1. 1
    Faucet base

    Water pooling on the deck can run down the faucet shank. Check the base seal and that the faucet doesn’t rock.

  2. 2
    Pull-down or side spray hose

    A worn hose can split where it rubs on the cabinet or sink edge. Run the sprayer and feel along the hose.

  3. 3
    Sink rim

    Failed caulk where the sink meets the counter lets splash water run under the rim.

  4. 4
    Dishwasher connections

    Check the drain hose clamp and the hot-water feed to the dishwasher.

  5. 5
    Soap pump or filter faucet

    Extra deck fixtures each have their own seal and line.

A faucet that rocks has a loose mounting nut, and the movement can break the base seal. How to tighten a loose faucet base covers that fix. A pull-down hose leak usually means a new hose from the faucet maker; the hose isn’t a generic part.

After it’s fixed: dry out and watch

  1. 1
    Dry the cabinet floor

    Leave the doors open with a fan on it. Particleboard swells if it stays wet.

  2. 2
    Check for soft spots

    Press the cabinet floor. Soft or swollen board means water sat there a while.

  3. 3
    Recheck tomorrow

    Run the test again the next day; slow weeps can take hours to show.

  4. 4
    Leave an alarm

    A spot alarm under the trap warns you next time, before the floor soaks.

The Resideo RWD21 is a reusable spot alarm. Resideo’s listing says it detects water only 1/16 in. deep and sounds an audible alert. For whole-house protection with phone alerts and an automatic shutoff, see smart water leak detectors with shutoff.

When to call a plumber: a leak inside the wall behind the sink, a stop that won’t shut off, corroded pipe that crumbles, or mold in the cabinet. Those go past a washer swap.

Questions people ask

Why is my kitchen sink leaking underneath?

Most often a loose slip nut or worn washer on the trap, or a failed basket strainer seal. A drip with the faucet off points to the supply side instead.

Why does my sink only leak when water drains?

Drain pipes only hold water while the sink empties. Check the strainer, the slip nuts and the trap with a full bowl draining.

How tight should a P-trap nut be?

Plastic slip nuts go hand-tight, plus a little more. Overtightening cracks them; a bad washer won’t seal no matter how tight.

Which way does a slip joint washer go?

The beveled, tapered side faces into the joint, toward the pipe the nut is sealing onto.

Can I use plumber’s putty on a P-trap?

No. Slip joints seal with their washers. Putty is for the basket strainer and faucet bases.

Is a slow drip under the sink an emergency?

Not usually, but supply-side drips run all the time. Shut that stop and fix it soon; cabinet floors swell fast.

Why is water under my sink but the pipes are dry?

It’s coming from above: the faucet base, a sprayer hose, the sink rim caulk or a dishwasher line.

Should I replace a metal trap with plastic?

If it’s corroded, yes. A plastic 1-1/2 in. trap from a repair kit won’t rust.

How I put this together

Why trust me

I’m Isaac Daniels, a licensed journeyman plumber in Georgia (license #JP507711), and I’ve used every item in the kit. The steps are my trade order, with tightening figures from Fluidmaster’s sheet and product facts from each maker’s listing, read on Oct 23, 2026.

How I pick

  • One part for each common leak: trap washer, drain parts, strainer seal, and an alarm.
  • Real brands with model numbers that match the maker.
  • New and in stock on Amazon on the day of the update.
  • No scores: each item does a different job, so they’re listed as a kit.
  • Prices come from Amazon’s API with the time they were read.

Sources

  • Fluidmaster, Click Seal connector installation sheet FM91233 Rev. 2.
  • Oatey, 31177 stain-free plumber’s putty product details.
  • Resideo, RWD21 reusable water leak alarm product details.
  • PlumbCraft (Waxman), 27-piece complete kitchen sink drain repair kit 7027010N; parts list as printed by retailers.
  • Amazon product data for B005BIG7TE, B00TSJR3PY, B006E356S8 and B00BIBD4EY, read through the Creators API on Oct 23, 2026.

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