For most stub-outs, pick the SharkBite Max angle stop. It fits copper, PEX, CPVC and more, even on a dripping line. For hot recirculation, pick BrassCraft’s KTCR19X, rated to 180°F.
Most stub-outs: SharkBite Max UR23036BN$13.60 at AmazonPrice as of Oct 24, 2026, 5:30 AM EDT
One pick per job. Each was a genuine BrassCraft or SharkBite listing, new, when we checked on Oct 19 and again on Oct 21, 2026. Prices come from Amazon and show the time they were read.
Best for PEX, CPVC or copper stubs out of the wall
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon.com at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.
Which stop fits your stub-out
The pipe sticking out of the wall decides more than the brand does. This grid puts each maker’s own rules side by side, row by row.
From BrassCraft’s Water Supply Stops install sheet 425.04 and submittals 400.01 (KT) and 400.92 (G2 push), and SharkBite’s Max supply stop spec sheet (Rev 2.0) and Max install guide, read Oct 19, 2026.
Two rows settle most jobs. Compression from BrassCraft is for type L or M copper; its PEX method needs a stainless insert, and CPVC isn’t on its list. SharkBite Max takes every common house pipe, including type K copper, because its install guide cites ASTM B88, the standard that covers all three copper types.
The hot-recirculation row is the one nobody mentions. BrassCraft says its G2 stops, push or compression, aren’t for recirculation lines above 115°F. Its KT ball stop is rated to 180°F, so on a loop that keeps hot water at the fixture, the compression KT is the stop to use.
The four stops, one at a time
Best for PEX, CPVC or copper stubs out of the wall
SharkBite Max angle stop
SharkBite Max ½ in. push × ⅜ in. compression angle stop, UR23036BN
Pushes onto PEX, copper, CPVC, PE-RT and HDPE SDR-9
No tools, solder or glue to connect
SharkBite says it goes on wet lines and can be tested right away
No tube liner needed for PEX
Sold by Amazon.com on Oct 21, 2026
Cons
Rated to 160°F, below the KT’s 180°F
Not for galvanized pipe
Not electrically continuous, so bond copper around it
Meant as permanent; reuse needs an inspection and a test
160°F max125 psi max1 in. insertion⅜ in. OD outlet2.6 × 1.7 in.NSF 61 and 372
Buy it if
Your stub-out comes out of the wall in PEX, CPVC or any type of copper, or the water won’t fully shut off.
Skip it if
The line runs hot recirculation near 180°F, or the stub is galvanized steel.
The UR23036BN is the SharkBite Max angle stop for a stub-out that comes out of the wall. It has a ½ in. push-to-connect inlet, a ¼-turn ball valve and a ⅜ in. OD compression outlet for the supply line. SharkBite’s spec sheet lists it beside the plain UR23036; both measure 2.6 × 1.7 × 1.1 in.
Pipe range is its big edge. SharkBite says Max stops fit PEX, copper, CPVC, PE-RT and HDPE SDR-9. Its install guide names the standards: ASTM B88 copper, which covers types K, L and M, plus ASTM F876 PEX and ASTM D2846 CPVC. HDPE needs a tube stiffener from the pipe maker.
Inside is a stainless grab ring with teeth that bite the pipe, an EPDM O-ring that seals against it, and a 304 stainless retainer. The body is lead-free DZR brass. SharkBite lists ASME A112.4.14 and NSF/ANSI 14, 61 and 372 for the Max stops.
Install is three steps. Cut the pipe square, deburr it, and mark 1 in. from the end, the insertion depth for ½ in. pipe. Push with a slight twist until the pipe bottoms out. SharkBite says the mark should sit within 0.005 in. of the release collar when it’s fully in.
The wet-line claim is real help in older houses. SharkBite’s product page says the Max stop can go on a wet line and be tested right away. When the main won’t close all the way and the stub keeps dribbling, there’s no nut to start and no sleeve to line up.
It also rotates after install, per SharkBite, so you can aim the outlet at the supply line. Leave at least 1 in. between SharkBite Max fittings so a disconnect clip fits later, per the install guide.
Know the limits. The stop is rated to 125 psi and 160°F, lower than the 200°F SharkBite lists for Max fittings on copper in general. The guide rules out galvanized pipe, and the fitting isn’t electrically continuous, so a copper line used for grounding needs a jumper across it.
On Oct 21, 2026, this listing was new, sold by Amazon.com and in stock. For most wall stub-outs in a house, it’s the stop we’d reach for first.
Best for hot lines up to 180°F
BrassCraft KT compression stop
BrassCraft KTCR19X C ¼-turn angle ball stop, ½ in. nominal compression × ⅜ in. OD compression
Designed, machined and assembled in the USA, per BrassCraft
Cons
Copper stub must be type L or M
PEX needs a stainless insert, sold separately
Wrench work: hand tight plus ¾ turn
No CPVC inlet: copper or PEX only
40 to 180°F125 psi max½ in. nom. comp. inlet⅜ in. OD outlet1.12 × 2.36 in.IAPMO listed
Buy it if
Your stub-out is clean type L or M copper, or the stop feeds a hot line on a recirculation loop.
Skip it if
Your stub is CPVC, PE-RT or type K copper, or you can’t get the water fully off.
The KTCR19X is BrassCraft’s ¼-turn ball stop with compression on both ends. The inlet takes ½ in. nominal pipe, which is ⅝ in. outside diameter, and the outlet takes a ⅜ in. OD supply line. That’s the most common pairing under a sink or toilet.
The X in the part number matters. BrassCraft’s 2025 submittal lists the lead-free parts as KTCR09X, KTCR19X and KTCR39X. We skipped a listing for a KTCR19 C1 with no X, because it may be the older part.
Inside, BrassCraft pairs a precision-machined brass ball with PTFE seats. The stem is blow-out proof, assembled from the inside out with two O-rings. The handle is zinc die cast and comes off with a screw, so nobody bumps the stop open during rough-in.
Its rating is why it’s here. BrassCraft rates the KT at 40 to 180°F and 125 psi. Its G2 stops, push and compression alike, stop at 160°F, and BrassCraft says not to use them on recirculation lines above 115°F. For those lines, BrassCraft’s G2 submittals point you to the KT ball stop.
Install is the usual compression routine. BrassCraft says to slide the nut and brass sleeve onto the copper, add a drop of oil if you like, tighten by hand, then give it ¾ turn with a wrench. No putty and no thread tape. A thin coat of sealant on the male threads only is allowed.
The copper must be type L or M, per BrassCraft’s install sheet. Type K, the thick-wall pipe, isn’t on its list. On PEX larger than ⅜ in. OD, BrassCraft wants its brass sleeve plus a stainless steel tube insert, which isn’t in this box.
Overtightening is the classic mistake. BrassCraft warns it can crack the stop over time, and says to keep the stop seated and square to the pipe while you tighten. If the stop sits crooked, the sleeve may not seal.
On Oct 21, 2026, this listing was new from Big Johns Deals, with few left. Amazon’s model field reads KTCR19XC. If it sells out, search the same KTCR19X C part number rather than settling for a G2 stop when you need the 180°F rating.
Best for matching other BrassCraft stops
BrassCraft G2 push stop
BrassCraft G2PS19X C ¼-turn push connect angle stop, ½ in. nominal × ⅜ in. OD compression
40 to 160°F125 psi maxPush to 1 in. mark⅜ in. OD outlet1.06 × 2.46 in.IAPMO listed
Buy it if
You want a push stop on copper, PEX or CPVC, and the rest of the house already has BrassCraft stops.
Skip it if
The stop feeds a hot recirculation line, or you’ll be sweating fittings close by.
The G2PS19X is BrassCraft’s push connect version of its G2 ¼-turn stop. The inlet pushes onto ½ in. nominal copper, PEX or CPVC, and the outlet is ⅜ in. OD compression. BrassCraft’s submittal lists it at 1.06 × 2.46 in., close to the size of the compression G2.
The tube insert is already in place. BrassCraft calls it installation ready: a POM plastic stiffener sits in the inlet to support PEX and CPVC from inside. The install sheet says not to try to remove it.
Grip and seal come from a stainless steel gripper ring and a rubber O-ring, with a glass-filled nylon removal collet. The body is plated brass, machined in one piece, and BrassCraft says every stop is leak tested before it ships.
BrassCraft’s push steps are short. Cut the tube square, round and free of burrs, and check that the stub is long enough for the stop and its flange. Mark 1 in. from the end and push the stop on until it reaches the mark. No putty, thread tape or sealant.
Removal needs the water off and the line drained. Then BrassCraft says to hold the stop in your palm, press the removal flange back with two fingers and pull it off the tube. There’s no brass sleeve left on the pipe afterward.
The rules are tighter than SharkBite’s. BrassCraft rates it 40 to 160°F and 125 psi, and says it’s not for recirculation or continuous use above 115°F. It’s for exposed locations only, and you can’t sweat within 12 in. of it.
So why pick it over the SharkBite? Matching. If you’ve standardized on BrassCraft stops, this keeps one maker’s install sheet, one set of cautions and one removal method for every stop in the house.
On Oct 21, 2026, this listing was new from House & Hammer and in stock. Amazon’s model field reads G2PS19X C, which matches BrassCraft’s chrome-plated part in its submittal.
Best for stubs coming up through the floor
SharkBite Max straight stop
SharkBite Max ½ in. push × ⅜ in. compression straight stop, UR23037
Wet lines OK and testable right away, per SharkBite
Rotates after install to aim the outlet
Sold by Amazon.com on Oct 21, 2026
Cons
160°F max
Not for galvanized pipe
A copper ground path needs a jumper
Needs 1 in. of clean, round stub to seat
160°F max125 psi max1 in. insertion⅜ in. OD outlet2.6 × 1.6 in.NSF 61 and 372
Buy it if
The supply pipe comes up through the floor or the cabinet bottom instead of out of the wall.
Skip it if
The stub comes out of the wall. The angle stop points the outlet up without a bend.
This is the same SharkBite Max design as the angle stop, in a straight body. The UR23037 is for stub-outs that come up out of the floor, where the outlet needs to keep going straight up to the fixture. SharkBite lists it at 2.6 × 1.6 × 1.1 in.
Angle or straight depends on where the pipe comes from, not on the brand. Out of the wall, use an angle stop so the outlet points up. Up through the floor, use a straight stop. Mixing them up leaves the supply line with a tight bend.
The pipe list matches the angle stop: PEX, ASTM B88 copper, CPVC, PE-RT, and HDPE SDR-9 with a tube stiffener. The ½ in. inlet needs 1 in. of insertion, so you need at least that much clean, round pipe above the floor.
Check the last inch of the stub for dents and scratches before you push. SharkBite’s guide says the pipe must be round and free of scratches, cuts or gouges, because the O-ring seals on the outside of the pipe.
Ratings match the angle stop: 125 psi and 160°F. On copper, SharkBite says to make every solder joint first, then make the push connection, and keep flame away from the fitting.
Removal uses a SharkBite disconnect clip or tongs pressed against the release collar while you twist the pipe out. The guide calls Max fittings permanent. Reuse is allowed only after the installer inspects the fitting, marks the depth again and pressure tests the joint.
SharkBite’s sheet also lists a UR23037BN with the same dimensions. The UR24947 straight stop has a male pipe-thread (MIP) end, which cannot thread onto a male nipple. A threaded nipple needs a matching female pipe-thread (FIP) stop; choose by thread size and the fixture’s required outlet.
On Oct 21, 2026, this listing was new, sold by Amazon.com and in stock. For a pedestal sink or any supply that rises from the floor, it’s the push stop we’d buy.
All four picks side by side
Every number comes from the makers’ documents. Scroll sideways on a phone. Prices are in each card and the picks above.
Green marks a strength and amber marks a trade-off. All four are rated to 125 psi.
Compression and push stops, spec by spec
BrassCraft’s G2 compression stop is here for comparison even though it isn’t a pick; its only clean listing wasn’t buyable when we checked on Oct 19, 2026.
Check
KT compression
G2 compression
G2 push
SharkBite Max
Part checked
KTCR19X
G2CR19X
G2PS19X
UR23036, UR23037
Temperature
40 to 180°F
40 to 160°F
40 to 160°F
Up to 160°F
Pressure
125 psi max
125 psi max
125 psi max
125 psi max
Recirculation above 115°F
Not excluded
No
No
Not stated
Inlet
½ in. nom. compression
½ in. nom. compression
½ in. push
½ in. push
Pipe
Type L or M copper; PEX with insert
Type L or M copper; PEX with insert
Copper, PEX, CPVC
PEX, copper, CPVC, PE-RT, HDPE
What seals
Brass sleeve and nut
Brass sleeve and nut
O-ring, stainless gripper ring
EPDM O-ring, stainless grab ring
Shut-off
Brass ball, PTFE seats
One-piece mechanism
One-piece mechanism
¼-turn ball valve
Connect
Hand tight plus ¾ turn
Hand tight plus ¾ turn
Push to 1 in. mark
Push to 1 in. mark
Tools
Wrench, tube cutter
Wrench, tube cutter
Tube cutter, marker, tape
Cutter, deburrer, marker
Where it may go
Accessible locations
Accessible locations
Exposed locations only
Under sinks and toilets
Listings
ASME A112.18.1 / CSA B125.1
ASME A112.18.1 / CSA B125.1
ASME A112.18.1 / CSA B125.1
ASME A112.4.14 / CSA B125.14, NSF 14
From BrassCraft submittals 400.01, 400.50 and 400.92 (rev. 9.25) and install sheet 425.04, and SharkBite’s Max stop spec sheet and install guide, read Oct 19, 2026. All four list NSF/ANSI 61 and 372 for drinking water. “Not stated” means the document didn’t say.
How a compression stop and a push stop seal
Google’s top question here is what a compression valve even is. The answer is in how the inlet grabs the pipe.
Part of the joint
Compression (BrassCraft KT, G2)
Push (BrassCraft G2PS)
Push (SharkBite Max)
What grips the pipe
Brass sleeve, squeezed by the nut
Stainless gripper ring
Stainless grab ring with teeth
What seals
The squeezed sleeve
Rubber O-ring
EPDM O-ring
Inside the pipe
Stainless insert on PEX over ⅜ in. OD
POM stiffener, already in place
Nothing on PEX; stiffener on HDPE
Sealant
Optional thin coat on male threads only
None
None on the push end
What ruins it
Overtightening, a crooked stop
Not pushing to the mark
Scratched pipe, short insertion
A compression stop seals metal on metal. You slide a nut and a brass sleeve over the pipe, and tightening the nut squeezes the sleeve onto the pipe and into the stop. That’s why BrassCraft limits it to type L or M copper: the sleeve is sized for that wall and outside diameter.
A push stop seals with an O-ring. The pipe slides through a toothed ring that grips it, then into an O-ring that seals around it. SharkBite’s guide says a secure joint forms only when the pipe passes the O-ring and reaches the tube stop, which is why the depth mark matters.
Each style fails a different way. Compression fails from too much force or a stop that isn’t square, and BrassCraft warns overtightening can crack the stop over time. Push fails from too little insertion or a scratched pipe. Both seal fine when the stub is cut square, round and free of burrs, which both makers ask for.
Every stop here handles a normal hot line. A recirculation loop is different, because hot water sits at the stop all day.
Longer bar means a higher rating. From BrassCraft submittals 400.01, 400.50 and 400.92 and SharkBite’s Max stop spec sheet, read Oct 19, 2026.
The U.S. Department of Energy suggests setting a water heater to 120°F for most homes. That’s already above the 115°F BrassCraft allows for its G2 stops on a recirculation line, where hot water moves past the stop around the clock. On those lines, BrassCraft points you to its KT ball stop.
SharkBite’s stop sheet lists 160°F and doesn’t mention recirculation either way. If you’re putting stops on a recirculation loop and want a written rating with room to spare, the KTCR19X’s 180°F is the only one of the four that gives it.
Hot line type
KT compression
G2 push or compression
SharkBite Max
Normal hot line, heater at 120°F
Yes
Yes
Yes
Recirculation loop, 120°F
Yes, rated 180°F
No, per BrassCraft
Not stated; rated 160°F
Heater set to 140°F
Yes
Within 160°F; not on recirculation
Within 160°F
Our reading of each maker’s rating. Water temperature from the U.S. Department of Energy’s water heating guidance.
Install steps side by side
Both styles take about the same prep. The difference is the last step: a wrench and a feel for ¾ turn, or a push to a mark.
Step
Compression (BrassCraft)
Push (BrassCraft G2PS)
Push (SharkBite Max)
1. Water
Shut off first
Shut off first
Wet lines OK, per SharkBite
2. Cut
Square, round, free of burrs
Square, round, free of burrs
Square, then deburr
3. Prep
Slide nut and sleeve on
Check stub length; mark 1 in.
Mark 1 in. insertion depth
4. Connect
Hand tight, then ¾ turn with a wrench
Push to the mark
Push with a slight twist to the tube stop
5. Check
Stop seated and square
Mark reached
Mark within 0.005 in. of release collar
6. Riser
Copper riser: hand tight plus 1 to 1¼ turns
Same compression outlet
Same ⅜ in. OD compression outlet
From BrassCraft install sheet 425.04 and SharkBite’s Max install guide, read Oct 19, 2026. For a braided connector with metal nuts, BrassCraft says hand tight plus ¼ turn on the outlet.
With compression, the work is all in the wrench. BrassCraft’s ¾ turn past hand tight is less than most people expect, and it says to keep the stop square while you turn. A drop of general-purpose oil on the threads makes tightening smoother. Thread tape on a compression joint is a mistake BrassCraft calls out by name.
With push stops, the work is in the cut. A burr can slice the O-ring, and a short push leaves the O-ring unseated. BrassCraft says failure to push to the mark may cause a leak; SharkBite sells a depth deburr gauge that does both jobs.
Check your stub-out before you buy
Four checks, in the order you’d do them under the sink.
Nominal size
Outside diameter
Stop to buy
¼ in.
⅜ in.
Not these; a ⅜ in. OD inlet stop
⅜ in.
½ in.
Not these; a ½ in. OD inlet stop
½ in.
⅝ in.
All four picks
¾ in.
⅞ in.
Not these; a ¾ in. stop
Nominal to outside diameter for copper, CPVC and PEX, from BrassCraft’s nominal and OD conversion chart, read Oct 19, 2026.
1. Measure the outside
A ⅝ in. OD stub is ½ in. nominal, the size all four picks take.
2. Name the pipe
Copper, PEX, CPVC, PE-RT or HDPE. Look for printed markings along the pipe.
3. Check the length
Push stops need 1 in. of insertion, plus room for the flange behind it.
4. Check the surface
Dents, scratches or an oval end mean cutting back to clean pipe.
Replacing an old compression stop adds one more check. The old brass sleeve is usually stuck on the pipe. A new compression stop needs a fresh sleeve on clean pipe, and a push stop needs the inch where the O-ring seals to be smooth, so plan to cut the old sleeve off or cut the stub back.
If cutting back would leave less than an inch, neither style seats properly. That’s a job for a coupling and a new piece of pipe first. Our guide to stopping a leaking pipe covers what to do in the meantime.
Removal and reuse
A shut-off valve gets replaced eventually. Here’s what each maker says about taking it off.
Compression (BrassCraft)
Push (BrassCraft G2PS)
Push (SharkBite Max)
How it comes off
Loosen the nut
Water off, line drained; press the removal flange and pull
Disconnect clip or tongs on the release collar; twist and pull
Special tool
Wrench
None
SharkBite clip or tongs
Reuse the stop
No: don’t reuse, inspect yearly
No: don’t reuse, inspect yearly
Meant as permanent; reuse only after inspection and a pressure test
Reuse the pipe end
Needs a fresh sleeve on clean pipe
Cut and deburr fresh
Cut off any marked or damaged pipe
From BrassCraft install sheet 425.04 and SharkBite’s Max install guide, read Oct 19, 2026.
BrassCraft’s sheet says not to reuse its stops and to inspect them every year, replacing any with damage or corrosion. SharkBite says Max fittings are a permanent connection, not built for repeated connecting and disconnecting. If you do pull one, check the pipe end; SharkBite says a marked or damaged end gets cut off and replaced.
These come from the install sheets, not the box fronts. Each one is a common reason a new stop leaks or fails.
Rule
Applies to
Source
Accessible locations only
All BrassCraft stops
BrassCraft 425.04
Exposed locations only
BrassCraft push stops
BrassCraft 425.04
Don’t sweat within 12 in. of the stop
BrassCraft G2 stops
BrassCraft 425.04
Make solder joints first; keep flame away
SharkBite Max
SharkBite install guide
No solid brass cone or bull-nose connectors
BrassCraft stops
BrassCraft 425.04
Use fully open or fully closed only
BrassCraft stops
BrassCraft 425.04
Cap the outlet if it’s a dead end
BrassCraft stops
BrassCraft 425.04
Copper jumper across it for grounding
SharkBite Max on copper
SharkBite install guide
Not on galvanized pipe
SharkBite Max
SharkBite install guide
1 in. between fittings
SharkBite Max
SharkBite install guide
The grounding rule surprises people. In some older homes, the copper water line is part of the electrical ground path. SharkBite says Max fittings aren’t electrically continuous, so a jumper cable has to bridge the fitting on a copper system. Compression stops are all metal, and BrassCraft’s sheet doesn’t raise the question.
The bull-nose rule matters on old toilets and faucets. BrassCraft warns that connectors with a solid brass cone or bull-nose end can crack its stops. Swap them for a braided connector; our toilet supply line size guide lists the sizes.
Why some plumbers avoid SharkBite stops
“Why do plumbers say not to use SharkBite?” is one of Google’s top questions on this search. Here’s what the documents can and can’t settle.
It seals on an O-ring
True. SharkBite says the pipe must be round and free of scratches where it seals.
It isn’t a ground path
True. SharkBite says to add a copper jumper on copper systems.
It can’t be taken off
False. A clip or tongs releases it, though SharkBite calls it permanent.
It’s not approved for drinking water
False. SharkBite lists NSF/ANSI 61 and 372 for the Max stops.
How long it lasts
Not in any document we read. No maker publishes a lifespan for these stops.
The honest summary: a push stop asks more of the pipe and less of your hands. A clean, well-cut stub makes a push stop easy. A gouged or out-of-round stub is better cut back first, whichever style you choose.
It’s a shut-off valve whose inlet seals with a brass sleeve and a nut. Tightening the nut squeezes the sleeve onto the pipe. BrassCraft’s compression stops take ½ in. nominal type L or M copper this way, tightened by hand and then ¾ turn with a wrench.
How does a compression valve work?
The nut pushes the brass sleeve into the valve’s inlet, and the squeezed sleeve grips and seals the pipe. Inside, a ¼-turn ball or mechanism opens and closes the flow. BrassCraft’s KT uses a brass ball on PTFE seats.
Is a compression fitting better than SharkBite?
It depends on the pipe and the heat. BrassCraft’s KT compression stop is rated to 180°F, against 160°F for SharkBite’s Max stops. SharkBite fits more pipe types, including CPVC, PE-RT, HDPE and type K copper, and SharkBite says it goes on wet lines.
Can you use SharkBite for a shut-off valve?
Yes. SharkBite makes Max supply stops in angle, straight, threaded (MIP) and dual-outlet versions. The ½ × ⅜ in. angle stop is the UR23036 and the straight stop is the UR23037, both rated to 125 psi and 160°F.
Why do plumbers say not to use SharkBite?
The common worries are that it seals on an O-ring and isn’t a ground path. Both are true: SharkBite says the pipe must be smooth and round, and that copper systems need a grounding jumper across the fitting. It is listed for drinking water under NSF/ANSI 61 and 372.
How long will a SharkBite last underground?
SharkBite doesn’t publish a lifespan. Its guide allows burying Max fittings when they’re wrapped in self-fusing silicone tape at least 0.020 in. thick, and says no joints inside a slab. Shut-off stops belong in an accessible spot, not underground.
Can you use compression fittings on push-fit pipe?
Not on the same joint. A push stop’s inlet has no thread for a compression nut. If pipe came out of a push fitting, SharkBite says to cut off any marked or damaged section before you connect anything new to it.
What are the downsides of push-fit connectors?
They need 1 in. of clean, round pipe, they’re rated lower than BrassCraft’s KT (160°F against 180°F), and SharkBite’s aren’t electrically continuous. BrassCraft limits its push stops to exposed locations and keeps torches 12 in. away.
Do compression shut-off valves need thread tape?
No. BrassCraft says not to use putty, gasket material or thread seal tape. A drop of oil, or a thin coat of thread sealant on the male threads only, is allowed.
How tight should a compression shut-off valve be?
BrassCraft says hand tight, then ¾ turn with a wrench on the inlet, keeping the stop square to the pipe. A copper riser on the outlet gets 1 to 1¼ turns, and a braided connector with metal nuts gets ¼ turn. Overtightening can crack the stop.
How we picked them
Why trust me
I’m Isaac Daniels, a licensed journeyman plumber in Georgia (license #JP507711). I’ve used the RIDGID 152 tubing cutter and the RIDGID 227S reamer, the tools for the square cut and clean end every stop on this page needs.
How we pick
Specs and rules from BrassCraft’s submittals and install sheet and SharkBite’s spec sheet and install guide, read Oct 19, 2026.
The spec score checks the hot water rating, the pipes each stop takes, where the maker allows it and how it connects. Pressure isn’t scored, since all four are rated to 125 psi.
Where a maker’s document doesn’t say something, the tables say “Not stated.”
Every listing checked as a genuine BrassCraft or SharkBite part, new, through Amazon’s Creators API on Oct 19 and again Oct 21, 2026.
CPSC recall search for BrassCraft and SharkBite: none found.
The spec score, check by check
Each stop gets the same four checks, read from BrassCraft’s submittals and install sheet and SharkBite’s spec sheet and install guide, averaged to one decimal. Every pick has to reach 7.0.
Pressure isn’t in the score because all four are rated to 125 psi. The KT scores lower than the SharkBite stops, but it’s still the one to buy for a hot line that runs past 160°F or a recirculation loop above 115°F.
Check (weight)
How it’s scored
Hot water rating (¼)
10 = rated to 180°F; 8 = rated to 160°F
Pipes it takes (¼)
10 = five pipe types listed; 8 = three; 6 = two
Where it may go (¼)
10 = the maker allows it in any accessible spot under a sink or toilet; 7 = exposed locations only
Connecting (¼)
10 = pushes on with no wrench; 7 = compression nut, hand tight plus ¾ turn with a wrench
Total
Average of the checks, to one decimal
Pick
Hot water rating
Pipes it takes
Where it may go
Connecting
Score
SharkBite Max angle stop UR23036
8
10
10
10
9.5
BrassCraft KTCR19X
10
6
10
7
8.3
BrassCraft G2PS19X
8
8
7
10
8.3
SharkBite Max straight stop UR23037
8
10
10
10
9.5
Sources
BrassCraft Water Supply Stops installation instructions 425.04 (cautions, copper and PEX compression inlets, push connect inlet, outlets, removal, reuse): brasscraft.com, read Oct 19, 2026.
SharkBite Max push angle stop product page (wet lines, test right away, rotation, no PEX liner): sharkbite.com, read Oct 19, 2026.
U.S. Department of Energy, water heating guidance (120°F setting): energy.gov, read Oct 19, 2026.
Amazon listings for B0CNTLQ8Q4, B00PM8KLMC, B00GG15XYU and B0CHJXVCK1 (seller, condition, stock, model field): read through the Creators API, Oct 19, 2026, 11:21 and 11:23 PM EDT, and again Oct 21, 2026.
Semrush keyword overview for “sharkbite vs compression” (110 US searches a month) and the live Google results page: Oct 19, 2026.
CPSC recall database searched for BrassCraft and SharkBite: Oct 19, 2026.
