You pressed the wrong fitting, or pressed it in the wrong place, and now you want it off. Short answer: it does not come off. A press joint is a permanent mechanical deformation of the copper, and the fitting and the tube under it are both finished.
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Why it cannot be undone
Pressing crimps the fitting into the tube and traps an elastomeric O-ring in a sealed pocket. Two things happen at once, and neither reverses:
- The copper tube itself is deformed under the crimp. Even if you could peel the fitting away, that section of tube is out of round and cannot seal anything again.
- The O-ring is compressed into its final position and is not reusable.
🔴 Do not try to re-press a joint that leaks. A second press will not restore a seal that is already leaking — that joint gets cut out. There is one case where a second press is correct, and it is Viega’s own instruction: rotate a ProPress copper or stainless fitting more than five degrees and it must be re-pressed, with the flats on the jaw lined up to the flats on the fitting.
Cutting it out without losing more pipe than you have to
- Drain and open a downstream valve. Residual water in the line is what turns a five-minute repair into an afternoon.
- Cut on both sides of the fitting, square, clear of the crimp rings. Cutting through the crimped section leaves a deformed end you cannot use.
- Check what length you actually have left. This is the moment to decide between a coupling and a longer repair piece — and if the run is tight, a slip coupling saves you.
- Ream and clean both ends. A burr inside the tube causes erosion downstream, and press fittings need a clean, round, undamaged surface for the O-ring to seal against.
- Mark your insertion depth on the tube before assembling, so you can see at a glance that the fitting is fully home.
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I send an occasional note to plumbers when I write up a repair like this one. Email only, no follow-up sequence.
What you need on hand
- Inner/outer pipe reamer and deburring tool — takes the burr off both sides of a fresh cut, which is the step that decides whether the new O-ring seals.
- Viega 78047 ProPress 1/2-inch coupling with stop, 10-pack (not linked: third-party seller only, low stock, on 10/4/2026) — the replacement joint for the section you just removed. The listing gives this one as a ten-pack, so you will end up with spares.
- Viega 78177 ProPress 3/4-inch coupling without stop, 5-pack (not linked: third-party seller only on 10/3/2026) — the no-stop version of the same fitting, for the case in the warning below. The listing gives it as zero-lead copper, press by press.
⚠️ A coupling with a stop needs pipe movement on one side. If both ends are fixed, you want a coupling without a stop so it can slide over one pipe and back — ordering the wrong one is the most common way this repair stalls.
The two failures that make people want to remove a fitting
An unpressed joint. The fitting is on, it holds under no pressure, and it lets go later. This is exactly what the leak-before-press feature exists to catch: an unpressed fitting should visibly leak during the pressure test rather than pass quietly. Test every joint before closing a wall.
A joint pressed with the jaw not square. The crimp comes out uneven and the seal is unreliable. Same answer: cut it out.
Both are covered in the wider guide to copper press fittings, along with which brands interchange.
Was press the right choice here?
If you are cutting out press fittings regularly on the same kind of work, the method may not fit the job. On accessible copper in dry conditions, a soldered joint is repairable in place and costs almost nothing in materials — ProPress vs soldering sets out where each wins. Where you want something genuinely removable, push-to-connect is the honest answer: those do come apart, and the technique is in how to remove a SharkBite fitting.
Tool choice affects how often the jaw-square problem shows up at all — see press tools and M12 vs M18.
FAQ
Can you remove a press fitting?
Not in any reusable way. The press permanently deforms both the fitting and the copper tube underneath it, so the fitting and that section of pipe are cut out and replaced.
Can you press the same fitting twice?
Once, in one specific case — and it is not the leaking one. A joint that leaks is cut out, not re-pressed: a second press will not restore that seal. But Viega instructs that a ProPress copper or stainless fitting rotated more than five degrees must be re-pressed, with the jaw flats aligned to the fitting flats.
What happens if you forget to press a fitting?
That is what the leak-before-press design is for: on a pressure test an unpressed fitting should leak visibly rather than hold and fail later. Test every joint before you close anything up.
Related guides
Related: a joint that weeps rather than fails outright is usually the seal — see press fitting O-rings and what each seal is rated for.
For the plumbers reading this
Most of this site is written for homeowners — this page clearly isn’t. If you’re in the trade and want the occasional straight-shooting note when I publish something like this (fittings comparisons, tool guides, code changes), drop your email. No spam, no course funnel, written by a licensed GA journeyman.