Buy the Starrett K148-12: a 12 in. blade, a level vial and 45° and 90° marks for square cuts, and a replacement blade Starrett still sells. Get the Stanley FatMax for its two-year warranty, or the Z-saw PVC240 for 17 teeth per inch on pipe up to 3 in.
Top pick: Starrett K148-12$11.99 at AmazonPrice as of Oct 24, 2026, 5:30 AM EDT
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon.com at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.
How the three compare on our spec score
Five checks from each maker’s own pages and catalog, equal weight. The rules and every input are in the method section near the end.
PlumbingPicks spec score out of 10, from Starrett’s, Stanley’s and Z-saw’s product pages and catalog, read Oct 22, 2026. It is not a customer rating or a lab test of our own.
All three are hand saws sold for plastic pipe. Two carry a 12 in. (300 mm) blade and one a 225 mm blade, about 8.9 in.
The scores sit close because each saw wins a different check. The Starrett has guides and a spare blade but no published tooth count. The Stanley publishes 11 teeth per inch and a two-year warranty, but its blade is fixed. The Z-saw has the tooth count pipe makers ask for, on the shortest blade.
Each pick, in detail
What each maker publishes, what it means on a plastic pipe job, and where each one fell short on our checks.
12 in. blade300 mmPVC and ABSLevel vial45°/90° marksPVC-12 blade
Buy it if
You cut 1/2 to 4 in. PVC or ABS and want help holding the saw square without a miter box.
Skip it if
You want the tooth count pipe makers recommend in writing. The Z-saw publishes 17 teeth per inch.
The Starrett K148-12 is the saw I’d hand a plumber who cuts PVC and ABS drain and vent pipe, and I’ve used it. It came out on top because it’s built around the one thing every pipe maker asks for: a square cut.
Starrett’s catalog calls it professional quality, with a rubber-coated aluminum handle that has a level vial in it and surface markings for 45° and 90°. On a pipe lying flat, the bubble tells you when the saw is plumb. Those guides earned a 10.
The blade is 12 in., or 300 mm, the longest here with the Stanley. That length leaves about 7.5 in. of blade past a 4 in. Schedule 40 pipe, by our math, so you get full strokes on drain pipe. Another 10.
Starrett’s store lists the PVC-12 replacement blade for the 148 saw, with the PVC-18 listed as an accessory too. Both were marked as not discontinued when I checked. A dull blade is a cheap fix, not a new saw, so that scored a 10.
Starrett says it cuts PVC and ABS, plus plasterboard, plywood and general-purpose work. The saw is made in China and the replacement blade in Brazil, per Starrett’s product data.
Two gaps cost it points. Starrett doesn’t publish a teeth-per-inch figure for the blade, so that check scored a neutral 5. Its pages don’t state a warranty term either, another 5.
Starrett’s own store lists the saw as made to order. The Amazon listing was in stock when we checked; the price line on this page shows the seller.
My call: pair it with a deburring tool, because a square end still has burrs. It’s the saw I’d keep on the truck for drain work.
Best for less burr on the cut edge
Stanley FatMax 2-17-206 PVC and plastic saw, 300 mm
300 mm blade11 TPI1 mm thickS2 steel30°/90° guides2 yr warranty
Buy it if
You want a stiff blade that leaves a cleaner edge, and a warranty in writing.
Skip it if
You want to swap a dull blade instead of the whole saw. The Starrett and Z-saw both have replacement blades.
The Stanley FatMax 2-17-206 is the saw for a cleaner edge, and I’ve used it. Stanley’s page says its tooth design reduces burring for cutting performance on plastics and PVC. Fewer burrs means less work before the joint.
The blade is 300 mm, 11 teeth per inch, in S2 steel, and 1 mm thick. Stanley says the thickness reduces blade flex and improves the accuracy of the cut. The teeth are induction hardened, which Stanley says keeps them sharper for longer.
Length scored a 10, the same as the Starrett. At the tip of the blade are 30° and 90° angle guides for marking out, another 10. There’s no level vial, so on a pipe you sight the cut by the guides and your eye.
The tooth count scored a 7. Spears’ solvent-weld instructions recommend a fine-toothed hand saw of 16 to 18 teeth per inch with little or no set. The Stanley’s 11 sits outside that range. Stanley’s listing does say the teeth are un-set, which matches the second half of the advice.
Its weak spot is the blade swap. The listing says the blade is ultrasonically welded to the handle, and Stanley lists no replacement blade for it. When it dulls, you buy another saw. That check scored a 4.
The warranty is a two-year limited warranty on Stanley’s page, an 8 on our check. The one-piece bi-material handle has a hang hole for the van wall. Stanley’s page lists one 300 mm saw in the box, nothing else.
This is the UK model, sold on Amazon through Amazon’s UK global store, so check the delivery date before you order.
My call: if you cut a lot of 2 to 4 in. pipe and hate cleaning burrs, start here.
225 mm blade17 TPI1.50 mm pitch0.60 mm thick0.90 mm kerfBlade 58015
Buy it if
You cut 1/2 to 3 in. pipe and want the fine tooth count Spears recommends.
Skip it if
You cut 4 in. drain pipe often. Z-saw rates this saw for pipe around 100 mm across; 4 in. Schedule 40 is 114 mm.
The Z-saw PVC240 is a Japanese pull saw made for plumbing pipe, and I’ve used it. Z-saw lists it as ideal for cutting PVC and PE pipe, plastic and acrylic plates. It’s the only pick whose tooth count lands inside Spears’ advice.
Z-saw’s page gives a 225 mm blade, a 1.50 mm tooth pitch, which it lists as 17 teeth per inch, a 0.60 mm blade and a 0.90 mm kerf. Spears recommends 16 to 18 teeth per inch with little or no set, so this check scored a 10.
That fine pitch puts more teeth across a thin wall. On 1/2 in. Schedule 40, with a 0.109 in. wall, about 1.9 teeth span the wall at 17 per inch, against 1.2 at 11 per inch, by our math.
The trade-off is reach. Z-saw rates the PVC240 for pipe around 100 mm in diameter. That covers 3 in. Schedule 40 at 3.500 in. (88.9 mm), but not 4 in. at 4.500 in. (114.3 mm). The 225 mm blade scored a 7.5 on length. Z-saw also makes a longer PVC300 in the same series.
Replacement blades are sold under No. 58015, a 10 on our check. Z-saw says all its blades are cold-rolled high-carbon steel at HV 540 to 580, and that its teeth are hardened by a process it calls Hard Impulse.
There are no angle guides on the saw, so that check scored a 5. Z-saw’s pages don’t give a warranty term, another 5.
Z-saw says those blades carry 0.8 to 0.9% carbon. My call: it’s the saw I’d reach for on 1/2 to 2 in. supply and drain lines in a cabinet, and I’d use a miter box for square ends.
The three side by side
Blade, teeth, guides and warranty from each maker’s own pages.
From Starrett’s store product data and catalog page 35, Stanley’s UK product page for 2-17-206 and Z-saw’s PVC240 product page, read Oct 22, 2026. Stanley’s welded blade is from its brand-written Amazon listing.
What pipe makers ask of a cut
The saw matters because the joint does. Here’s what two pipe makers write about the cut, side by side.
Step
Spears
Charlotte Pipe (1/2 to 4 in.)
Cut
Cut square with a wheel-type cutter or saw and miter box
Cut square with the axis; an angled cut may result in joint failure
Hand saw
Fine-toothed, 16 to 18 teeth per inch, little or no set
Remove inside and outside with a knife edge, file or deburring tool
Bevel
Bevel all pipe ends 10° to 15°
Chamfer the end 10° to 15°
Dry fit
Interference between 1/3 and 2/3 of socket depth
Pipe goes 1/2 to 2/3 of the way into the hub
Cracked end
Not covered
Cut at least 2 in. past any visible crack
Spears “Solvent Cement Welded Joints” (which points to ASTM D 2855) and Charlotte Pipe’s Plastics Technical Manual (TM-PL), read Oct 22, 2026.
Charlotte’s reason for the square cut is plain: every joint seals at the base of the fitting hub. If the end is angled, part of it never reaches the bottom of the socket.
Charlotte’s list for 1/2 to 4 in. pipe doesn’t name a hand saw. Spears does, as long as it’s fine-toothed and used with a miter box. My call: a hand saw is fine on the job when you cut square and check the end before you prime.
Both makers agree on what comes after the saw. Take the burrs off inside and out, then bevel the end 10° to 15°. Our purple primer guide picks up from there.
Will the blade get through your pipe?
A saw needs blade to spare past the pipe for a full stroke. Here’s how much each blade length leaves on every Schedule 40 size.
Pipe size
Outside diameter
Wall
Blade left, 12 in. (Starrett, Stanley)
Blade left, 225 mm (Z-saw)
1/2 in.
0.840 in. (21.3 mm)
0.109 in.
11.2 in.
8.0 in.
3/4 in.
1.050 in. (26.7 mm)
0.113 in.
11.0 in.
7.8 in.
1 in.
1.315 in. (33.4 mm)
0.133 in.
10.7 in.
7.5 in.
1-1/4 in.
1.660 in. (42.2 mm)
0.140 in.
10.3 in.
7.2 in.
1-1/2 in.
1.900 in. (48.3 mm)
0.145 in.
10.1 in.
7.0 in.
2 in.
2.375 in. (60.3 mm)
0.154 in.
9.6 in.
6.5 in.
3 in.
3.500 in. (88.9 mm)
0.216 in.
8.5 in.
5.4 in.
4 in.
4.500 in. (114.3 mm)
0.237 in.
7.5 in.
4.4 in., past Z-saw’s ~100 mm rating
6 in.
6.625 in. (168.3 mm)
0.280 in.
5.4 in.
2.2 in., past its rating
Outside diameters and minimum walls: Spears “Dimensions & Pressure Ratings,” Schedule 40 table. Blade left = blade length minus outside diameter, our arithmetic. Z-saw’s “around 100 mm” rating is from its PVC240 page.
Every size through 4 in. leaves a 12 in. blade more than 7 in. of travel past the pipe. That’s why both 300 mm saws scored a 10 on length.
The Z-saw is the one to watch on drain pipe. Its maker rates it for pipe around 100 mm, and 4 in. Schedule 40 is 114.3 mm across. For 3 in. and smaller, it has plenty of blade.
My call: at 6 in., use the power tools Charlotte lists for that size, a reciprocating saw or a cut-off saw. Our reciprocating saw blade guide covers the blade side.
Why the tooth count matters on thin walls
Spears asks for 16 to 18 teeth per inch. Here’s how many teeth that puts across a pipe wall, next to the Stanley’s 11.
Our arithmetic: wall thickness (0.109 in., Spears) × teeth per inch (Z-saw and Stanley pages). Starrett doesn’t publish a tooth count, so it isn’t charted.
Pipe size
Wall
Teeth across it at 17 per inch
At 11 per inch
1/2 in.
0.109 in.
1.9
1.2
1 in.
0.133 in.
2.3
1.5
2 in.
0.154 in.
2.6
1.7
3 in.
0.216 in.
3.7
2.4
4 in.
0.237 in.
4.0
2.6
Walls from Spears’ Schedule 40 table; tooth counts from Z-saw (1.50 mm pitch, 17 per inch) and Stanley (11 per inch). Our arithmetic.
On small supply pipe, the wall is barely thicker than one Stanley tooth is apart. The Z-saw keeps nearly two teeth in the wall at once.
Spears also asks for little or no set, meaning teeth that aren’t bent outward. Stanley’s listing says its teeth are un-set, and Z-saw’s 0.90 mm kerf is only 0.30 mm wider than its 0.60 mm blade.
My call: on 2 in. and up the difference shrinks, and a 12 in. blade’s longer stroke starts to matter more.
Replacement blades: which saws you can refresh
Plastic dulls a blade slowly, but it does dull it. Here’s what each maker sells to fix that.
Saw
Replacement blade
Length
What the maker says
Starrett K148-12
PVC-12
12 in. (300 mm)
Replacement blade for the 148 PVC saw; PVC-18 also listed as an accessory
Z-saw PVC240
No. 58015
225 mm
Blade number on the PVC240 page
Stanley FatMax 2-17-206
None listed
300 mm
Listing says the blade is ultrasonically welded
The Starrett blade swap is the one I like most for a work truck. Starrett lists both a 12 in. PVC-12 and an 18 in. PVC-18 for the 148 series, and its catalog says the K148 ships with a 12 in. or 18 in. blade.
Z-saw’s page doesn’t say how the PVC240 blade comes out, and its care page lists hook, screw and pin fittings by model family without naming the PVC240. Check the sheet in the box before you force it.
The Stanley’s welded blade is part of why it feels solid. It also means the saw’s life ends with its teeth.
How to cut PVC square with a hand saw
Steps from the pipe makers, with my calls marked. The saw’s guides only help if the pipe can’t roll.
Step
What to do
Source
1. Hold the pipe
Use a miter box or clamp so the pipe can’t roll
Spears: saw and miter box
2. Mark
Mark the cut all the way around, using a wrap as a straight edge
My call
3. Cut
Let the saw do the work; keep the blade plumb to the mark
My call; Starrett’s level vial, Stanley’s 90° guide
4. Check
Look at the end against a square or the fitting
My call
5. Deburr and bevel
Clean burrs inside and out; bevel 10° to 15°
Spears and Charlotte
6. Dry fit
The pipe should stop partway into the socket
Spears: 1/3 to 2/3; Charlotte: 1/2 to 2/3
The level vial on the Starrett is handy here. With the pipe lying level, hold the saw so the bubble centers and the cut runs plumb.
A Japanese pull saw like the Z-saw cuts on the pull, which is easy to steer once you let the blade’s weight do the work. That’s my call from using one, not a maker figure.
For the deburr step, our deburring tool guide covers the tools; Spears says a mill file works too.
PVC saw, hacksaw, ratchet cutter or power saw?
What each tool is for on plastic pipe, from the pipe makers’ lists and my own calls.
Tool
Pipe makers say
My call
Hand PVC saw
Spears: fine-toothed, 16 to 18 per inch, with a miter box
Any size to 4 in., in tight spots and on drain pipe
Hacksaw
Not named by either maker
Fine if the blade meets 16 to 18 per inch and you cut square
Ratchet cutter
Charlotte lists it for 1/2 to 4 in.; keep it sharp
Fastest on small supply pipe; see its size limit
Wheel cutter
Both list it; Charlotte says the wheel must be for plastic
Clean, square ends when the pipe fits
Reciprocating or cut-off saw
Charlotte lists both; carbide blade for cut-off saws
Large pipe and demo work
A ratchet cutter is the quickest square cut on small pipe, and our pipe cutter guide covers the sizes each one takes. A hand saw is what you reach for past that size, or when the pipe is too close to a wall for a cutter’s jaws.
A hacksaw is a hand saw too. Spears’ test is the tooth count and set, not the frame. My call: check the blade’s teeth per inch against 16 to 18 before you use it on a joint.
Will these saws cut ABS and other plastics?
What each maker says its saw cuts, word for word where it matters.
Saw
Materials the maker lists
Starrett K148-12
PVC and ABS; also plasterboard, plywood and general-purpose cutting
Stanley FatMax 2-17-206
Plastics and PVC (tooth design reduces burring)
Z-saw PVC240
PVC and PE pipe, plastic, acrylic plates
Charlotte’s cutting steps cover ABS, CPVC and PVC together, so the same square cut, deburr and bevel apply to black ABS drain pipe. Our PVC vs ABS guide covers where each pipe is allowed.
Only Starrett names ABS outright. My call: the other two cut it the same way, but I’d go by the maker’s list if a warranty question ever came up.
Saws we checked and left out
These came up in Amazon searches on Oct 22, 2026. Here’s what kept each off the list.
Saw
What we found
Why it’s out
Milwaukee 12 in. PVC/ABS saw (48-22-0212)
Listing titled “12 in. PVC SAW,” but every photo shows the 48-22-0222 replacement blade pack
Can’t confirm whether the saw or a blade ships
Lenox 20980HSF18
18 in. PVC/ABS saw, 10 left from a third-party seller
Lenox’s hand saw pages now redirect; no maker page to check
KAKURI PVC pipe saw
Japanese pull saw, imported
No product page on KAKURI’s site to check specs
Z-saw PIPE SAW H-240
Same 225 mm blade and 17 per inch as the PVC240
One Z-saw pick covers it
MK Morse 12 in. PVC saw
Listed with a 4 to 5 week lead time
Not in stock
HAUTMEC 11 in. PVC saw
Smaller brand, listing text only
We picked well-documented brands first
The Milwaukee one deserves a warning, since “Milwaukee PVC saw” is a common search. Milwaukee’s page lists the 48-22-0212 saw with a tool-free blade change and a limited lifetime warranty. The Amazon listing we found shows only the blade pack, so read the photos before you buy.
How to choose in four questions
Question
If yes
If no
Do you cut 4 in. drain pipe often?
Starrett or Stanley (300 mm)
Any of the three
Do you want 16 to 18 teeth per inch?
Z-saw PVC240
Starrett or Stanley
Do you want to swap blades, not saws?
Starrett or Z-saw
Stanley
Do you want a warranty term in writing?
Stanley (two years)
Any of the three
My call for a plumber who cuts drain, waste and vent pipe: the Starrett K148-12. For a service plumber who mostly cuts 1/2 to 2 in. pipe under sinks, the Z-saw’s fine teeth and short blade make sense.
The Starrett K148-12, on our spec score of 8.0. It has a 12 in. blade, a level vial and 45° and 90° marks for square cuts, and Starrett sells a replacement blade for it.
What kind of saw is best for PVC?
A fine-toothed hand saw used with a miter box, per Spears: 16 to 18 teeth per inch with little or no set. Of our picks, the Z-saw PVC240 at 17 per inch fits that best.
What is the best tool to cut PVC with?
For small pipe, a ratchet cutter is the quickest square cut. Charlotte Pipe also lists a miter saw, reciprocating saw, cut-off saw and wheel cutter for 1/2 to 4 in. pipe. A hand saw covers sizes and spots a cutter can’t reach.
Can I cut PVC with a saw?
Yes. Spears lists a saw and miter box among the tools, and Charlotte lists miter, reciprocating and cut-off saws. Whatever you use, both makers want a square cut, burrs removed and the end beveled 10° to 15°.
What is the difference between a PVC saw and a hacksaw?
A PVC saw has a stiff blade on an open handle, so its length isn’t limited by a frame. A hacksaw holds a thin blade in tension in a frame. For plastic pipe, Spears’ test is 16 to 18 teeth per inch with little or no set, whichever saw holds the blade.
Can I cut PVC with a hacksaw?
Spears doesn’t name a hacksaw, but its rule is a fine-toothed hand saw, 16 to 18 teeth per inch, used with a miter box. My call: a hacksaw blade in that range works if you cut square and deburr.
How many teeth per inch for cutting PVC?
Spears recommends 16 to 18 teeth per inch with little or no set. The Z-saw PVC240 has 17; the Stanley FatMax has 11; Starrett doesn’t publish a count for the K148-12.
Can a PVC saw cut ABS pipe?
Starrett lists PVC and ABS for the K148-12. Charlotte Pipe’s cutting steps cover ABS, CPVC and PVC the same way: cut square, deburr and bevel.
How big a pipe can a PVC saw cut?
It depends on the blade. A 12 in. blade leaves 7.5 in. of travel past 4 in. Schedule 40, by our math. Z-saw rates its 225 mm PVC240 for pipe around 100 mm across, which covers 3 in. but not 4 in.
Do I need to deburr PVC after cutting?
Yes. Spears says burrs are created whatever the cutting method and must be removed from the inside and outside, and both Spears and Charlotte say to bevel the end 10° to 15°.
Why does a PVC cut need to be square?
Charlotte Pipe says all joints seal at the base of the fitting hub, and an angled cut may result in joint failure. Square ends let the pipe reach the bottom of the socket.
Can you replace the blade on a PVC saw?
On two of our picks. Starrett sells the PVC-12 blade for the K148-12, and Z-saw sells blade No. 58015 for the PVC240. The Stanley FatMax blade is welded in.
How we picked these
Why trust me
I’m Isaac Daniels, a licensed journeyman plumber in Georgia (license #JP507711), and I’ve used all three picks. Every spec here comes from Starrett’s, Stanley’s and Z-saw’s own pages and catalog, and the cutting steps from Spears and Charlotte Pipe, read Oct 22, 2026. Where I add advice of my own, it’s labeled as my call.
How I pick
Only hand saws sold for plastic pipe, from well-documented brands, new and in stock on Amazon, checked through Amazon’s product data the same day.
Facts from each maker’s product page or catalog first. Where only the brand-written listing says something, the page says so.
Each card’s spec score comes from the five checks below. All three score 7.0 or higher.
CPSC recall search for Starrett, Stanley FatMax and Z-saw saws: no recalls found.
The spec score, check by check
Each check scores 0 to 10 and counts one fifth. Anything the maker doesn’t publish scores a neutral 5. It’s our score from maker documents, not a customer rating or a lab test of our own.
Check (weight)
How it’s scored
Blade length (⅕)
Blade length ÷ 300 mm × 10, up to 10
Replacement blade (⅕)
10 when the maker sells a replacement blade; 4 when the blade is fixed to the handle
Angle guides (⅕)
10 for angle marks or a level on the saw; 5 for none
Tooth count (⅕)
10 for 16 to 18 teeth per inch (Spears’ advice); 7 for another published count; 5 when none is published
Warranty (⅕)
10 for lifetime; 8 for two years in writing; 5 when none is stated
Total
Average of the checks, to one decimal
Pick
Blade length
Replacement blade
Angle guides
Tooth count
Warranty
Score
Starrett K148-12
10 (300 mm)
10 (PVC-12)
10 (vial, 45°/90°)
5 (not published)
5 (not stated)
8.0
Stanley FatMax 2-17-206
10 (300 mm)
4 (welded)
10 (30°/90°)
7 (11 per inch)
8 (2 yr)
7.8
Z-saw PVC240
7.5 (225 mm)
10 (No. 58015)
5 (none)
10 (17 per inch)
5 (not stated)
7.5
Sources
L.S. Starrett Co., K148-12 and PVC-12 product data on Starrett’s online store, and catalog page 35 (K148 and K143 PVC saws): read Oct 22, 2026.
Stanley (Stanley Black & Decker UK), 2-17-206 12-in (300mm) 11 TPI PVC Hand Saw product page: read Oct 22, 2026.
Z-saw (Okada Metal Works), PVC240 product page, utility saw index, Replacement & Care and general description pages: read Oct 22, 2026.
Milwaukee Tool, 48-22-0212 12 in. PVC/ABS Saw and 48-22-0222 replacement blade product pages: read Oct 22, 2026.
Charlotte Pipe and Foundry, Plastics Technical Manual (TM-PL), installation procedures for 1/2 in. to 4 in. and 6 in. and larger IPS ABS, CPVC and PVC: read Oct 22, 2026.
Brand-written Amazon listing text for B071GNNNFZ, B005INX2PO, B0BZV2ZWT9 and the left-out saws: read through Amazon’s product data, Oct 22, 2026.
U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recall data, searched for Starrett, Stanley FatMax and Z-saw saws: Oct 22, 2026.
Google results for “pvc saw”: seen Oct 22, 2026. Search volumes from Semrush, Oct 22, 2026.
